Sunday, September 9, 2012

Takulandirani ku Ntaja! - Welcome to Ntaja


Aaaaaaaaaaand just like that, I’m an official Peace Corps Volunteer!  I can’t believe it – everyone told us that training would fly by, and it did (except for those few weeks where I was ready to move back out of homestay and back to the college).  About a week and a half ago, my training class had our official swear-in ceremony in Lilongwe at the Ambassador’s house.  It was beautiful, it was touching; we laughed, we cried; we spoke in English, Chichewa, Chitumbuka, and Chilambia; we waited while numerous substitute-Ambassadors, Malawian Ministry of Education personal, and Peace Corps officials gave remarks; and then finally, it was done!  We gave our oath to uphold the Constitution, etc. etc. etc., and then we got to gorge ourselves on Embassy food!  Not too shabby, if I do say so myself.

We swore in on a Wednesday, and on Thursday everyone was supposed to leave.  But,  the PC Malawi being PC Malawi, 5 of us lucky new volunteers got to stay at our training site one extra night (since they didn’t have enough drivers and vehicles to get us all there in one day).  I was actually kind of glad to stay an extra day – one more day where I didn’t have to cook for myself, where use electricity and shower. . . and then the water went off.  It’d been happening off and on all training, but let me tell you, the bucket bath I drew for myself when I finally got to site was amazing.  The food was still good though, as was the company.  A few of us went to go visit our families back in our homestay village, and it was awesome to see my Amayi for a few minutes.  Naturally, my ever-missing Abambo wasn’t there, and my brothers were playing, and my Amayi was extremely apologetic for not having any ufa (corn flour, for nsima) to give me.  But I got to introduce her to my friend who’s staying and teaching in Mpalale for the next few years, and she told me to come back at my Mid-Service Training (MST) in December!

Friday morning, after an hour or so of packing the PC land rover with everything three twenty-something PCVs could need for the next two years, we were off!  I travelled with two of my friends who are currently living in Zomba, the region just south of Machinga, and we spent a few hours chatting up our driver, eating the PB&Js we packed for the road, and generally savoring company with Americans.  I was dropped off first, and let me tell you, there’s nothing quite like watching that land rover roll away, with you staying in an empty house.  The first few days were overwhelming – fun fact: I definitely won’t have electricity for at least a few weeks, if not months (aka if I get electricity before 2013, I’ll be really excited).  And did you know, it’s actually quite hard to start a fire on a charcoal stove?  I knew that theoretically, of course, but there’s nothing quite like hunger to exacerbate the realization that no, I’m not a good fire-top cooker.  Luckily, I figured it out a little bit, and I’ve been able to make rice, pasta, quinoa, eggs, and a few other things.  And I know where they sell peanut butter, so I won’t starve.  Then, of course, I had to get my locks changed.  This was an experience which took about three trips to the carpenter to remind him he was supposed to be at my house over three days, with him finally completing the task on Sunday morning before church started (the only event to which Malawians are occasionally on time is church). 

Before I knew it, school started on Monday morning!  Theoretically, school begins at 7:30, and students and teachers arrive at 7 to prepare for the day.  While I got there on time, some of the teachers didn’t roll in until 8 or so, and students began arriving around 7:30 and kept coming all morning.  Apparently they didn’t want to sweep the classrooms or grounds, which they are expected to do daily, but which is an especially tedious task on the first day of school when the grounds haven’t been cleaned for two months.  After a brief staff meeting, we went into an assembly (please note that at this point, I still hadn’t received a schedule), and then I was helpfully informed that the Form 2s stopped at the Periodic Table last year, and could I please go teach a double period.  Those of you who know me, and my love of knowing my schedule and what to expect for the next day/week/month/year, can imagine how I felt about that, but luckily I was able to fake a lesson for an hour and a half (oy) on Monday, and again on Tuesday.  By Wednesday I at least had a temporary schedule.  It was temporary for a few reasons:
1.       Our school currently has 6 teachers, including the head teacher and myself, who are typically asked to teach a lighter load (for instance, PC recommends that new volunteers teach no more than 15 40-minute periods in a week), while the other teachers are teaching close to 30.  Utterly ridiculous.  Supposedly we’re getting one more teacher soon (as soon as he moves here), and maybe one or two more at some upcoming point. 
2.       The Form 1 and 3 students weren’t in yet, because they haven’t finished grading their national exams yet.  Please note that all schools operate on a government-decided schedule, and yet their exams, which are given by the government, aren’t marked.  So the Form 1s will arrive this upcoming Monday, and the Form 3s will arrive sometime . . . soon.  Who knows, really?

Anyhow, school has been fine so far, but we’re just not into the regular swing of things yet.  Hopefully we will be soon.  The other teachers seem pretty nice, and I feel badly that they teach so much more than me, but I honestly am going to need to extra time to help me adjust, lesson plan, and learn about my community.  We’re definitely not in Kansas anymore, as Dorothy once said.

In other updates on this past week: I got my first real set of tummy troubles, and let me tell you, the Curse of the Gule Wamkulu is remarkable similar, and perhaps even more frightening, than the Curse of the Pharaoh’s Tomb that we experienced when I studied abroad, possibly due to the fact that I am now the proud owner of my very own pit latrine, complete with the giant cockroaches who think they live in it.  I went back to visit my site mate and eat at the Father’s house the other day for lunch, and it was amaaaaaaaaaaazing, but at this point, even they are experiencing electricity troubles!  Makes me feel better about my own situation, except I was hoping to charge stuff there. 

Today I jumped at the chance to take advantage of my proximity to Liwonde and Rachel (my friend from the states, from high school), so I got up early, caught a minibus, argued my price down from 800 kwacha (ridiculous) to 500 (normal), and then Rachel picked me up in town.  Let me tell you, this girl is living the bwana lifestyle compared to me – electricity, a refrigerator(!), and going to the Liwonde National Park every weekend to hang out.  So that’s where we are now!!!!  We are sitting under a big, thatched roof, with all these cushioned tables and couches, and baobab trees everywhere, drinking coffee.  While I’ve been writing this, I had a small break where I went to go see some elephants by the water!  My first African elephants.  They were far away, since apparently elephants are wild animals and run really fast.

Ok, it’s time to finish relaxing and enjoying the company.  Check the new tab for a list of American things I miss for you to throw into care packages!  Or, just write me letters.  I miss you.  And for now, tiwonana.  I’ll try to write again soon!

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